A Tour to Monarch Overwintering Sanctuaries in
Mexico - 2001
Bill Calvert
- Monarch Watch of Texas
ITINERARY
Day 1: Fly into Mexico City staying at the Hotel de Cortez. Take taxis to
the hotel from the airport. Those coming in as a group will be met at the
airport. Those arriving separately will be given foolproof instructions on how
to reach the Hotel de Cortez. We will assemble at 5:30 PM for an orientation
chat and a get-acquainted supper at the Cafe Tacuba. On the way to the
restaurant we will walk through the Alameda, a place of immense historical
importance to Mexico, and pass by the white-marbled Palace of Fine Arts.
Day 2: Depart for Toluca where we will have breakfast. After
breakfast, we will travel south to Malinalco where the Aztec maintained a
redoubt. Here carved out of the mountain above the town is the Aztec temple
where new members of the Order of the Jaguar and Eagles were initiated. These
were the Aztec "special forces" charged with guarding the king and his
palace. They also were expected to distinguish themselves in the "flowery
battles" with the chosen enemy. Below in the center of town is a 17th
century Augustine convent that graces the town plaza. Painted on walls beneath
17 coats of plaster are the Paradise Garden murals. These mural, painted
by Indian artisans, represented an attempt by the Spanish crown and mendicant
religious orders to pacify and Christianize the vanquished Indians.
Day 3: After a delicious lunch, we depart for the colonial town of
Valle de Bravo. The drive will be through forested mountainous country around
the 15,000' Nevado de Toluca. On the way we will pass by Herrada, the
mountain on which one of the butterfly colonies is located. Weather and
butterflies cooperating, we may see them streaming down the mountain side to
find water. For the naturalist in the group, also in the area are the
golden-browed and red warblers, clay-colored robins, slate-throated
redstarts and if we are lucky a gray-barred wren or mountain trogan. A
picnic lunch will be served in one of the high alpine meadows in view of the
Nevado. There should be an opportunity to observe striped sparrows, bluebirds,
kingbirds and Scott's oriole. That afternoon we will drive to our Hotel Los
Across. Many artisan shops grace the cobbled streets of Valle. Shops featuring
pottery, leather goods, weaving and the usual array of Mexican crafts. We will
stroll through the town and dine at the Restaurant Michoacana. For those who
wish, we will walk to the heights above the town for a fantastic night view of
the town and lake.
Day 4: After breakfast we will drive to the largest butterfly
colony in the Sierra Campanario near the Ejido, Rosario. On the way we will pass
through Mazahua Indian country where many of the women dress much as they did
before the conquest. We will lunch at one of the local "tiendas" that
features quesadillas, tacos made in hand patted blue Indian corn. Gringo food
will be provided for those who do not wish to test the waters. After lunch we
will climb into the forest where the monarch colony is located and view them at
our leisure. Late afternoon we will descend into the old mining town of
Angangueo where we will stay at the Hotel Don Bruno. An evening walk will show
us some of the flavor of the town that hasn't changed much since the revolution.
Day 5: We will return early to a second, pristine butterfly colony
located in the Sierra Chincua to view monarch behavior at a different time of
the day. Early afternoon we will pick a spot in the forest near the butterfly
colony for a picnic lunch. After our descent into Angangueo, if time permits, we
will visit the Parker Museum. This museum, maintained by the Angangueo mine,
represents the lives of two expatriates who used Angangueo as a base from which
to travel Mexico of the 30s and 40s. Their adventures and the life of the times
are recorded in many photographs they took.
During the journey to our Hotel San Cayetano, we will descend from boreal forest
to tropical dry deciduous forest. You will experience the contrast between the
high altitude boreal forest where the monarchs live and the dry deciduous
tropical forest the upper slopes of the Rio Balsas. The grounds of the San
Cayetano are immaculately kept; many tropical exotics are present. If we are
lucky we will see a white morpho butterfly meandering along the river. Bring
your swimming suits. There will be opportunity to swim in the fish-shaped pool.
After supper we will see a slide show on the monarchs by our guide Bill Calvert.
The migration biology and natural history, research and conservation efforts to
protect the overwintering colonies are among the topics that will be discussed.
Day 6: After a leisurely morning touring the grounds of the San Cayetano,
we will visit at the pyramid, San Felipe de los Alsati, built by an unknown
group of Indians. Along the way we are almost sure to see a magnificent
vermilion flycatcher and its mate. In the afternoon we will choose between
exploring and enjoying the exquisite grounds of our hotel and visiting a nearby
waterfall.
Day 7: Return to Mexico City. We will reach our Hotel de Cortez. in late
afternoon, time enough to tour the nearby Franz Meyer Museums for those
interested. Also nearby is the famous "skeleton" mural of Diego Revera
and the Palacio de Bellas Artes, also full of murals. In the evening we will
re-assemble at our hotel, the de Cortes to have a farewell diner and see a
local version of the ballet folklorico.
Day 8: Fly home. (Those wishing to shop are encouraged to return late or
on the following day so that they can visit the exquisite Saturday Market (Bazar
Sabado) in San Angel. This market is open every Saturday morning from 9:30ish to
around noon.)
Features and costs of the trip
The cost for the tour will be
$950.00 person for eight days and seven nights double occupancy plus airfare
which, of course, varies greatly depending on where you are from and the timing
of your ticket purchase. The fee includes all meals, lodging and ground
transportation except taxis service to the airport from our hotel in Mexico City
(estimated at $8-9each way).
We will endeavor to make the
trip of special interest to teachers by visiting local schools to learn about
the Mexican school system and the problems encountered in teaching in rural
Mexico. Many aspects of Monarch research will be discussed and suggestions
will be made as to how simple science experiments can be done in the classroom
using the Monarch butterfly as a teaching tool to enlighten children and help
scientists learn about the migratory phenomenon. A slide show will be presented
featuring all aspects of monarch biology, some aspects of scientific research
and the conservation biology of the species. The interactions of local people
with monarchs and the impact of monarchs on the local economy will be discussed.
The trip will include visits to two pyramids not generally known to the public.
Finally there will be an opportunity to view many bird species that are endemic
to central Mexico.
Most of our accommodations and
restaurants are four star. Some of the restaurants we will visit are among the
best in Mexico.
Biographical sketch of Bill Calvert
Bill Calvert received a BA from
the University of Texas in philosophy and then went off to serve in Uncle Sam's
Army. After two year's soldiering, he decided to do something practical. So he
took up the study of butterflies. For his dissertation project he researched
butterfly feet. More specifically, he investigated the mechanism by which female
butterflies located their host plants. It turns out that they use their front
legs to taste a potential host as final verification of its suitability. After
graduating, he studied bark beetles in Mississippi and later, tent caterpillars
in Massachusetts. While at the University of Massachusetts, he met Lincoln
Brower, one of the world experts on the monarch who was then at Amherst College.
They started a collaboration that has produced over thirty scientific papers on
the monarch and which continues today.
Most recently he has become the
Texas coordinator of the Monarch Watch, a non-profit enterprise, the purpose of
which is to learn as much about the biology of the monarch butterfly as possible
using volunteers to extend the range of observation throughout the whole of
Texas, and to use the monarch butterfly to teach basic concepts of ecology, and
reproductive and migration biology. Along the way, the Texas Monarch Watch hopes
to instill in those who come in contact with this beautiful creature an
appreciation of science, and especially of nature. In addition to this, each
migratory season he tries hard to observe the migration in Texas and Mexico to
accumulate information about how they get themselves from latitude 45 to
latitude 20 and find those nine small areas in the highlands of Mexico.
Information about Monarch butterfly tours
Suggestions for the Monarch tour
Accommodations: All three hotels in which we will stay are excellent with
clean, comfortable rooms. Two of them are super hotels bearing many stars.
The one 3 star hotel that we will use (Hotel Balneario Aqua Blanca) was chosen
for its incredible setting and immense biological interest! Agua Blanca may be
closed. If so we will stay at the San Cayetano.
Arrival: You must clear customs. This process is usually perfunctory
and takes only a few minutes. You will probably have to push a button on a
miniature stop light. If green you pass right through. If red they will inspect
you. They may x-ray your luggage in addition to the button-pressing procedure.
Taxis from the airport: P take a taxi to the Hotel De Cortez. Taxi
tickets are sold at booths in the airport that are government controlled. They
will charge you a fixed price based on the zone (section) in which the hotel is
located. Buy a taxi ticket in advance from one of these government ticket
agents. The location nearest the International Exit is around to the left as you
pass out of the customs area (sliding doors) and through the metal poles
(barrier keeping back the hordes of waiting people). Signs to the ticket booths
say SERVICIO TAXIS.
Our hotel in Mexico City is the Hotel de Cortez on Calle (street) Hidalgo
across from the Alameda. It is in the historic zone - zone number four. I paid
about $9.00 in February of 2000, but rates may vary. This fee is good for up to
four people. If more than four, you must buy another ticket. There is
usually a person who speaks English near the booth to help you. It is NOT
recommended to hail taxis off the street in Mexico City. If you are intercepted
by people offering taxis service in the airport, politely refuse them and buy a
ticket from the government sponsored taxis service. After buying the
ticket, you must reenter the main hall, turn left and walk through some glass
doors. There will be many taxis with the airport logo and a number of people to
direct you to a waiting taxi.
Climate and clothing: Daytime temperatures in Mexico City should be in
the mid-60's to mid-70's and could be as low as the 40's or 50's at night.
The Monarch colonies are near 10,000 feet elevation, but we will be at that
elevation only during the day. It will be cool in mornings and evenings and
during cloudy weather. Afternoon temperatures during sunny weather may rise into
the 80's. Expect temperatures from 40 - 90F. We will ride in an open truck up to
the colonies which may produce some wind-chill. Please bring warm clothing such
as a warm, medium weight coat or better, a light coat and sweater - garments
that you can peal off or add on as the temperature changes are best. Also
bring one set of light clothing such as shorts and tee shirts and a swim suit.
Almost any footwear suitable for walking will do from tennis shoes to boots. The
trails are rocky, so ankle support is probably a good idea. Although rain is
unlikely - February/March is the middle of the dry season), please bring
sufficient rain gear to be able to continue activities in a light rain. If we
arrive in the colony area after a long dry spell, road dust thrown up by other
vehicles could be a problem. In this event a handkerchief or dust mask is
very useful. Remember the tropical sun (ca. 20N latitude) is intense. Bring a
brimmed hat and sun screen. Mexican hotels are not heated. Some (Don
Bruno) get cold at night. Bring one set of warm bed clothes just in case.
Currency: The Mexican peso is somewhere around 9.5 to the dollar. The
best rates have been at bank outlets called Casa de Cambios scattered throughout
Mexico City or at the airport, but every now and then hotels try to accumulate
dollars and give better rates. Unfortunately these times are not predictable.
Since we will be spending most of our time outside of Mexico City where changing
money is difficult, we recommend that you take a few minutes at the airport to
change the money that you think you will need in Mexico. Bank teller's
"booths" line the wall opposite your exit point from Customs into the
airport. The exchange rates among these booths usually vary only a few hundreds
of a peso, but why not get the best rate? Since virtually everything is
included in the price of the tour, you will need only money for snacks,
alcoholic beverages and things you may want to buy. In many cases,
especially in the urban centers, credit cards are accepted.
Documents: US citizens need only proof of citizenship to enter Mexico. A
birth certificate or passport will do. A voters registration card used to work,
but is now questionable. If you don't have a passport, take an official birth
certificate. You will be issued a tourist card upon entry into Mexico. You will
need to present your copy of the tourist card when leaving Mexico. Losing it
will result in lots of grief!
Emergency contact: You may want to leave a copy of the following hotel
addresses and phone numbers with relatives or friends.
Hotel De Cortez
Av. Hidalgo 85
Mexico 3, D.F.
011 52 551 821 84
Hotel Asoleadero
Malinalco, Edo. de Mexico
011 52 714 701 84
Hotel Los Arcos
Fco. Bocanegro No. 310
Valle de Bravo
Estado de Mexico
011 52 726 218 78
011 52 726 200 42
Hotel Albergue Don Bruno
Angangueo, Michoacan
011 52 715 600 26
Hotel Balneario Aqua Blanca
near Jungapeo, Michoacan
011 52
715 700 56
Rancho San Cayetano
Apdo. Postal 23
H. Zitacuaro, Michoacan
CP 61500 Mexico
011 715 319 26
Health precautions: Please remember that the Monarch colonies are at
10,000 feet elevation. The air is thin. Depending on where the colony forms and
the time of the year, the hike to the colony can be strenuous for people not
used to the altitude. (The colonies tend to form high and move down as the
season progresses. We will visit them after they have moved down slope.) We will
visit two colonies - Rosario and Chincua. In the case of Rosario we start low
and walk up. So visiting in late February or March will be an advantage. In the
case of Chincua we start high and walk down. Their having moved downslope
will be a disadvantage, since we will have to walk further down and then back
up. We ask that you exercise good judgment in deciding whether or not to make
the hike to the Chincua colony. If you have any doubts about your health at
these altitudes, we strongly suggest that you consult your physician.
No vaccinations are required to enter Mexico. The Centers for Disease Control
(404-329-3311) recommends an immunization against yellow fever (good for 10
years) and a gamma globulin shot for the prevention of hepatitis. We will not be
in any hot, steamy tropical lowland areas. The lowest altitude that we will be
at is ca. 4000 feet at Agua Blanca. Please contact the CDC for the latest
information on potential health hazards in Mexico, especially if you will be
visiting areas other than the Monarch sanctuaries.
Because of the tropical latitude, thin atmosphere and lack of
water vapor and dust in the air, solar radiation is very intense. Bring sun
screen and a brimmed hat for mid-day use.
To avoid traveler's diarrhea follow these common-sense rules:
Never drink unpurified water or ice, unpasteurized milk or milk products, or eat
uncooked vegetables or unpeeled fruit. Also avoid undercooked fish, shellfish,
beef and pork, as well as old mayonnaise or creamed mixtures. Purified
water (filtered or electropurified) is available at our hotels. Purified
water is now generally available in Mexico. We will have a 5 gallon container on
the bus for your use. If traveler's diarrhea does occur, Bactrim-DS (or Septra-DS)
is almost an overnight cure. Kaopectate or Imodium can help relieve symptoms.
Drinking and eating cautiously is usually sufficient to avoid the problem.
Luggage and carry-on: Please limit you baggage to one medium or small
suitcase and one carry on. We suggest that you place all essential medications,
critical items and equipment and a change of field clothes in your carry-on
luggage.
Personal items: Be sure to bring a canteen or water bottle for daily use.
You will need a day pack for carrying personal items while visiting the
butterfly colonies. Other suggested items are an alarm clock, small flashlight,
sunglasses, chapstick, binoculars, and ear plugs. (Even rural towns
in Mexico can be noisy). Many people have missed wash cloths. Rural
Mexican hotels do not supply them.
Photography: For best results photographing the Monarchs, a 50mm lens and a long lens
with plenty of flash is recommended. The Mexican guides at the butterfly
colonies are inconsistent about the use of flash at the colonies. Some prohibit
its use. They believe that flash harms the butterflies, but there is no evidence
to support this claim. There should be opportunities for good butterfly cluster
shots without flash. In general there will be some, albeit limited, opportunity
to use flash. Please contact me directly if you wish to take lots of flash
pictures.
Time: The part of Mexico that we will visit is on Central Standard Time.
Birding: Some birds you may expect to see: Gray barred wren,
slate-throated redstart, red warbler, tufted flycatcher, gray
silky-flycatcher, black-backed oriole, black-headed grosbeak, western
bluebird, townsend's warbler, acorn woodpecker, curve-billed thrasher, stellar's
jay, scott's oriole, ruby-crowned kinglet, white-eared hummingbird,
amethyst-throated hummingbird and maybe a mountain trogan and a striped
woodcreeper. A checklist will be available.
Biographical sketch: William H. Calvert
Bill Calvert was a post-doc at the University of Massachusetts when he met
Lincoln Brower then at Amherst College. Dr. Brower's long term research on
the monarch butterfly among other things established the fact that edible
butterflies can be protected from bird predation because birds that learn to
avoid toxic butterflies also refuse to eat other butterflies that look like
them. About this time the famous August 1976 National Geographic magazine
about Urquhart's discovery of the Mexican overwintering site came out with cover
of young lady adorned with countless monarch butterflies. Bill had spent lots of
time in Mexico and was fascinated by the prospect of finding the overwintering
site. Urquhart and the National Geographic kept the site a secret which further
peaked the interest of Brower and Calvert; so they teamed up to try to find it.
With only a couple of clues to go on, Bill combed the mountain ranges of central
Mexico, climbing most peaks over 10,000 feet. His arduous search was more than
fruitful. Instead of a single wintering site for the butterflies, he found nine.
Over several years he mapped them, estimated their numbers and kept track of the
different kinds of mortality occurring. These finding were published in
scientific journals. At the same time he came to know and respect the local
people in rural communities and larger towns. Many of these people are now
working to protect the monarch butterflies and their habitats in the mountainous
fir forests of Michoacan.
Bill leads several tours a year to Mexico to take interested people to the heart
of the Transvolcanic range to glimpse the awesome aggregations - millions upon
millions of orange/black butterflies festooning the fir trees to the
extent that their green color is no longer visible. Typically the
butterflies hang in huge clusters in the dark, cool parts of the forest. On warm
days many waken and take to the air or land on foliage to bask. On partly
cloudy days when the sun is covered by a cloud, hundreds of thousands of these
baskers, sometimes millions of butterflies, take to the air in a butterfly
blizzard. During late winter they patrol the canopies looking for mates. Once
mated, they begin the long trek back to their northern breeding grounds. After
several generations in the north, the descendants of the original migrants make
their way back to the nine areas in the high mountains of central Mexico. This
group is able to find these small remote areas without having ever having been
their before.
Personal: BA Philosophy: University of Texas.
PhD Zoology: University of Texas
One boy child [12 years old] adopted from Bulgaria
List of publications
Registration Form 2001
A Migration of Monarchs: 24 February - 3 March or 10-17 March. Please
specify which trip!
A journey to the heart of Mexico featuring the monarch butterfly
overwintering grounds, visits to a rural Mexican school, towns and settlements,
pre-Columbian pyramids and many aspects of Mexican culture. $950 per person,
double occupancy; single supplement $150.00 (Single supplement will be charged
only to those desiring a single room.) Airfare is additional Minimum of 10
participants; maximum of 20. A deposit of $200.00 secures a place.
Full payment due January 31, 2001
Full name(s) Birth date(s)*
1). ______________________________________________________________
2). ______________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
Address City
State Zip
_________________________________________________________________
Home phone
Work phone Name of roommate requested
Name of emergency contact ________________________________________
Relationship: _____________________________________________________
Phone numbers of contact: _________________________________________
Special dietary requirements _______________________________________
* Optional, but its nice to know how old people are so we can better match
you with a roommate. Please mail final payment to:
Monarch Watch of Texas, Inc.
503 East Mary Street
Austin, Texas 78704
e-mail wmcalvert@sbcglobal.net (best)
Fax (computer): (512) 326 2231 (poorest, must call first)
Phone: (512) 441-0387
Travel insurance
Travel insurance is most convenient. . Most policies provide redress for trip
cancellation and various delays and inconveniences, travel accidents, associated
emergency medical/ dental problems and if needed, emergency
transportation. There are many agencies. Your Travel Agent is probably a good
source. One we have dealt with is Access America @ (800) 284-8300. Please check
below.
_____ I do not wish to buy insurance.
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Limitations of liability and responsibility
The Monarch Watch of Texas, Inc contracts with service providers in Mexico who
provide means of transportation, lodging and meals and/ or other related travel
services. The Monarch Watch of Texas, Inc. assumes no responsibility howsoever
caused for injury, loss or damage to persons or property in connection with any
service resulting directly from: acts of God, detention, annoyance, delays,
expenses arising from quarantine, strikes, thefts, failure of any means of
conveyance to arrive or depart as scheduled, civil disturbances, terrorism, government or regulations, and discrepancies or changes
in transit or hotel services over which it has no control. Reasonable changes in
the itinerary may be made where deemed advisable for the comfort and well being
of the participants. By final payment to the Monarch Watch of Texas, Inc.,
the client agrees to be bound by the above terms and conditions.
I have read and accept the responsibility clause as stated above. I
authorize the Monarch Watch of Texas to make reservations for me in accordance
with the information above.
Signature_____________________________ Date
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